Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
Broken car in Broken Hill!!! The weather for the day not looking promising with a lightning storm and tropical downpour to start the day.
The accommodation we were placed in by RACV was a renovated miners cottage – Hebbard Cottage. It is great with everything you need and more including breakfast cereals etc. A good view can be seen at www.uniqueoutback.com. it is the white cottage with the bull-nose verandah.
The Prado is delivered to Toyota Broken Hill for assessment once the other jobs in the workshop are attended to. Finally late morning we receive the diagnosis of a collapsed/broken front shock absorber and spring damage……with Monday being a public holiday in NSW we are told that earliest Toyota could repair would be Tuesday next week, provided they had received non Toyota replacement parts.
Numerous phone calls are made to Melbourne and Paul at Patrolapart – Lilydale arranges for new shockers to be air freighted to Broken Hill that day. RACV had extended the accommodation and hire car for us, until the repairs are resolved, which is a big relief.
Hopefully the parts will be here on Thursday to enable repairs by the NRMA/Repco Agent either Thursday or Friday morning.
Whilst we are waiting, Tony & Jen, Michael & Dot intend to take in as much of Broken Hill and surrounds as possible.
We hope to be on the road by Friday, heading to home. We understand the grandchildren are in count down mode for our arrival…which has now been delayed by a day or so.
See you soon Belle, Mikey, from Nanna & Pa.
See you soon Asher & Jarvis from Nanna & Pa, Grandma & Grandpa.
This is the final blog entry for Tony’s Tag-along Trip. It has been a wonderful trip experiencing such a diverse, rugged beautiful empty outback Australia. Thank you to all members of the party for their contribution, fellowship and friendship during our journey. Dot has said how the next weeks will be somewhat lonely without the daily contact and interaction of the Group.
Thanks Tony for organising such a great trip and especially for inviting US. We had a marvellous time and saw parts of Australia that we would never have been able to do by ourselves.
Thursday, September 29, 2011
BROKEN HILL - 27/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
The destination target for our travels today from Tibooburra was the outback opal mining town of White Cliffs, some 250 klm away, so a leisurely start. Tony wandered around the town taking approx. 10 minutes to take in the sites. Hills of large boulders surrounded the park and town. The drive in theatre accommodated a very small number of cars. Tony was very impressed with the vehicle bull bars and setup of a couple of roo shooters in town at the time.
Off to White Cliffs where we again were on dirt and travelled through diverse landscapes ranging from large treeless grassy plains, sandy tracts, stony and rocky plains. Dry river and creek crossings had deep red sandy beds.
We saw wild goat herds on a number of occasions, as well as wild horses, and for Dot & Michael’s first time swerving to miss snakes on the road. Tony’s eagle eye again picked up a potential problem from wild horses at full gallop converging towards the road we were travelling on………I don’t know how he picks them up as these initial images were blobs of dust to us some 500 – 1000 metres off at 10 o’clock in the distance. we thought once we saw the dust cloud they may have been cars or motor bikes, but Tony insisted they were animals. He was right, they were brumbies………they stopped well clear of the road.
We arrived in White Cliffs and visited the Underground Motel to book in. Unfortunately all booked out [school holidays for NSW & Qld] and no other underground accommodation in town. So a quick lunch was decided and we would set off for Broken Hill.
This did not happen immediately as Michael noticed an issue with Prado’s front suspension – well down on the driver’s front side. A local had a quick look and indicated a collapsed suspension arm, therefore need for a tow-tray truck…….so RACV contacted and truck despatched from Broken Hill – 300 klm away.
We went for lunch to the local outlet. We all ordered – Tony & Jen received theirs and after some 30 mins Michael went to ask where Dot & his lunch was, only to be told it had been cooked and handed out . After convincing them that we had not received the burgers, they indicated they would cook new ones for us. 25 minutes later we enquire where burgers were, only to be told they had been cooked and given to “us”. Another disputed discussion re non receipt and finally we receive them some 15 minutes later.
Tony & Jen stayed for awhile trying to organize accommodation in Broken Hill – very difficult. Finally they went off to Broken Hill and we waited for the truck……a walk around town visiting an opal store and reading in the car, whilst waiting for the tow truck. Finally it arrives around 4.30pm and after loading we head off for Broken Hill arriving at 8.30pm EST.
We have “Total Care” package for roadside service and this meant that the RACV organised accommodation for us…….in this case the NRMA tow truck operator has it all covered – towing, owns the accommodation as well as the hire car.
Home delivery pizza for late tea and off to bed in a daze, after another day in a town truck cabin – Longreach on Saturday and now White Cliffs to Broken Hill on Tuesday……
Monday, September 26, 2011
Tibooburra–26/09/11
Cadet reporter: Michael Gavin
Today is the real outback of South Western Queensland [Channel Country] and Western New South Wales [Corner Country].
Up at the usual 6.00am and packed, fed and we are on the road by 7.30am, as we have a big day ahead. As we leave the park and on the road we see more native wildlife – mobs of kangaroos , emus and chicks plus feral animals – pigs, wild dog, horses, than we have seen previously on our trip.
After 250 klm we arrive at Eromanga, for a morning tea break. We fill up the vehicles at an Oil Refinery, which is supplied from numerous oil wells in the surrounding district. The break is welcomed and we receive an update of the area from the locals behind the counter.
The off to Noccundra Hotel [160 k away] in the Channel Country……aeroplanes drive up to the back of the 
From here it is off to Tibooburra in NSW [ 246klm away].
This country is so big and empty…..vast tracts of treeless plains, bleached grass, and various shades of red soil. Entering NSW we have to open/close the gate of the 6 foot high [1.8m] Dingo fence.
We arrive at Tibooburra and with the threat of rain for the first time we seek a cabin to save a wet tent pack up in the morning.
Welford National Park – 25/09/11
Cadet Reporter – Michael Gavin
Brolgas last night wandering around the camp sites, this morning a mob of kangaroos just over the fence 
Michael still in a daze from yesterday goes off for a shower in the park facilities……he hears Dot & Jen talking “next door” and on finishing dressing and exiting discovers Jen combing her hair in the general entry area. He slips by very quickly but forgets to pick up his glasses. Dot has to go searching for the glasses once he realises they are not to hand.
Fuel fill up and then off to the Longreach Stockmen Hall of Fame for Tony & Jen, Michael & Dot and Peter C. This is a fascinating and interesting facility which we spent from 9.00am – 1.00pm One hour was lost with a stockman/comedy show with his horses/camel & a team of bullocks. After lunch, it was time to farewell Peter C who was heading for Brisbane.
Tony & Jen, Dot & Michael then headed for the Welford National Park , some 260 k away, the bulk on QLD’s super unmade roads. We arrive at a billabong to set up camp….the only drawback being no fires due to the dryness and potential fire risk.
The area was a bird haven as flocks of birds of many types [including pelicans] arrived for evening roosting. After dark some night birds [ possible owls] were flying over us.
Longreach - 24/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
Up at 6.00am and we awake to a foggy morning, which does not take long to burn off once the sun rises above the horizon.
Peter C and Tony go wandering and discover the remains of shallow diggings – sign indicated some gemstones. Many trees in the hillside area had been blown over from a cyclone/hurricane that went through the district.
Eagle eye Tony located a large flock of emus and mobs of kangaroos way off in the district…..without Michael’s binoculars many of these were just shadows or blurred images. With binoculars Dot located some bustards as well.
We set off just before 8.00am and call in to the spectacular Porcupine Gorge formation – well worth the 
Next stop is Winton [214k away] where we come across the Winton Matilda Festival – arrive just in time for a lunch order as the place stops serving at 2.00pm After lunch have a quick walk around the exhibits , and then off to Longreach another 175 klm to cover. Hopeful of getting in before dark to setup and look around.
Things went smoothly and making good time until approximately 70k out of Longreach. Michael & Dot’s Toyota Prado start to surge and then loose power for the next 5 – 6 klm….Finally we came to a stand still……..a fuel problem as nothing was coming through even with vigorous priming……..yet our fuel gauge indicated nearly a quarter of tank of fuel left. We concluded that there was a problem in transferring the fuel from the reserve tank….…….similar to exiting Cobourg Peninsular
The location did not have phone coverage, so Tony pulled out the Satellite phone and after a couple of failed attempts at contacting RACQ, he rang his daughter Rhoda [our daugher-in-law] with the details. Rhoda organised a call to RACV and arranged a tow truck to come from Longreach and collect us. While this was happening Peter C. went to Longreach to arrange accommodation and return with some diesel.
Time was filled in whilst waiting with a local farmer stopping to see if he could assist…if it was not for the modern electronics he may have been able to help. Finally the Tray truck arrives and Doug and his offsider were very helpful and informative as Dot & Michael rode in the cabin on our way to Longreach. On arrival in Longreach Peter C. has approx 10litres of diesel for us…we put this in and the car starts up immediately….a quick short run shows no problems, so we decide to fill up and keep the take well above quarter full on our journey home to Melbourne.
Tent set-up in the dark and then off to the caravan park eatery for evening meal and a few beers…….ginger for Tony. The evening is very balmy as we sit outside.
BlackBraes Mining Reserve – 23/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
Everyone caught up with an early breakfast and then farewells to Greg & Wanda, as they were returning home via the coast initially.
The travelling group is now down to 3 vehicles – Peter C, Tony & Jen, and Michael & Dot. We headed up to Atherton on the Atherton Tableland – very windy and picturesque road, then via rolling hills and valleys on to Ravenshoe – the highest town in Queensland for a morning tea stop………sent SMS & photo to past group member Peter Daunton of luscious vanilla slices eaten by Michael & Peter C. Peter D phoned to advise he and Sue were home – had difficulty finding accommodation down the coast, with the last day driving from just below Mackay to Brisbane.
We hear on the news major fire at Mareeba, nearby to Atherton and where Dot & Michael were 2 days ago…coffee and banana plantations under threat.
From Ravenshoe it was off to the Undara Volcanic Park, just before Mt. Surprise. In our travel we come across the Savannah Way [ Route 1 Cairns Qld to Broome WA] again. We travelled the Savannah way previously in various parts of NT. We were taken on a 2 hr bus tour to the lava tubes in the Volcanic Park 
After 3.00 pm It was then off to Blackbraes National Park to find a campsite. The roads everywhere in outback Queensland, were predominantly unsealed, but were super wide [20m – 30m] with generally a surface that 90 – 100 k per hour was safe and comfortable. Major roadworks were being undertaken to upgrade to the above widths on most Developmental Roads….we encountered this again this afternoon.
Dusk was falling with cattle, kangaroos and emus appearing on the roadside. “Eagle eye” Tony, now in front, located a little track that lead into a Mining Reserve, adjacent to the National Park…..we followed the track for about 1klm so as not to be seen from the road. Tents up in the dark and baked beans for all for evening tea in the dark.
Bed followed group discussion.
CAIRNS–tropical Heritage Hotel – 22/09/11
Last day in Cairns for all….Greg & Wanda, Dean & Karen, Michael & Dot all did the scenic Kuranda Village visit. Up on the scenic winding train journey [ left at 8.30am taking approx 2 hours] to Kuranda up on the Atherton Table. The railway was an engineering marvel, constructed 125 years ago. The large curves enabled pictures of the front and rear of the train to be taken. The gradient was very steep in many places. A couple of waterfalls provided photo opportunities.
The return journey to Cairns was via – “SkyRail” - a gondola high
Tony, Jen & Peter C spent the day having car matters attended to, plus lunch at a Swiss bakery.
The above group all met for a final evening meal together at a Greek restaurant, which everyone enjoyed – Tony had his Hawaiian Pizza. Ice creams from a Swiss ice creamery was had on the way to the hotel…..Then final packing for early departure next morning.
Farewells to Dean and Karen as Karen was flying home tomorrow and Dean was travelling with Greg & Wanda initially.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
CAIRNS – Heritage Boutique Hotel – 21/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
After a joint breakfast, Greg & Wanda went off to do their day tour of Fitzroy Island and its water activities. They were catching up with Dean and Karen on this tour.
Tony, Jen and Peter C went off to Kuranda and bumped into Jill P wandering around.
Dot & Michael did the round trip – Kuranda – Mareeba – Atherton – Cairns. It was a great day with breath taking climbs and descent over the mountain range. First stop was Coffee World at Mareeba, where nearly 2 hours was spent tasting coffee and tea blends, tasting luscious chocolate and chocolate/coffee liqueurs, talking to the coffee roaster and wandering around their coffee and tea museum. The fascinating collection of coffee equipment and tea pots etc. has been developed over past 38 years. We could not leave without purchasing some chocolates and liqueur.
Next stop was the Tolga Timber works – very attractive pieces of furniture using a range of Queensland timbers rich in colour. Prices for the large tables were in the vicinity of $8,000.00 to $10,000.00.
Onto Mt. Uncle Distillery, which was set on a working banana plantation. The fruiting bananas were all encased in large plastic bags. We saw the incoming fruit being processed and cleaned and split into hands for packaging a despatched to Coles. In for a tasting, however no whisky in stock. Instead we were tempted with a vodka infused marshmallow liqueur, which apparently becomes a gel when frozen.
Next stop was the Crystal Caves at Atherton, which had on display a vast range of precious and semi-precious cut stones. There was an opportunity to pay extra and visit their special cave with a 3.5metre high amethyst crystal. As other sections were upstairs for free viewing we declined going downstairs.
Then onto Yungaburra, where we visited a massive curtain fig tree – a seed is deposited in upper branches
Next stop was the Gem shop at Yungaburra, specializing in pearls and opals….look no buy.
Then homeward trip down a very windy mountain with eye catching views when the trees opened up a bit.
CAIRNS – Heritage Boutique Hotel – 20/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
The group together this morning is just Tony &Jen, Michael & Dot, Peter C & Jill P.
Peter C planned to organise his car ready for a service and a wash as well as deliver Jill P to meet up with a friend at Trinity Beach….so more farewells today.
Dot & Michael had booked the previous night for a half day cruise and glass bottom boat ride at Green Island. Jen successfully persuaded Tony into going on this trip also. The Hotel’s wonderful manager – Rosemary, delivered us four to the Wharf Terminal for check-in and final payment. It was like an International Airport and us Aussies were in the minority. Tourists and backpackers from China, Japan, Korea, Italy, Germany, Finland, Denmark and many other countries were present. The bulk of the tourists/backpackers were in their 20-30s.
Green Island’s waters were crystal clear, giving us a great view of the fish around the pier and shore. Our glass bottom boat with 30-40 travellers [ 95% Chinese & Japanese] provided excellent viewing of the reef fish and the range of corals. The depth below the glass bottom ranged from 1m – 7m. The colours of the fish were dramatic and eye catching. This trip lasted 30 minutes. The boat had a running commentary in Japanese and then Chinese…..unfortunately no English commentary and the boat driver/guide was very reluctant to answer questions from the Aussies…..we could see clear coral damage from the Crown of Thorns starfish and a snail, however the guide denied any problems with the reef.
Other activities available on Green Island included snorkelling, scuba diving, para sailing, coral reef viewing from semi submersible, underwater observatory , plus other activities.
After the glass bottom boat ride we walked on the beach around the full circumference of the island [ 12 hectares in size].
As we travelled back to Cairns, D&M sat on the upper deck and we travelled through one section of the ocean that was covered in an algae given off by the coral. It looked like a thick light brown paint on the surface of the water. The crew were advising alarmed tourists that it was not an oil slick. It was much more obvious from the upper deck rather than the internal lower deck that we travelled across on.
Lunch at Beethoven's [ bread rolls] with Tony & Jen, then strolling around the CBD for much of the afternoon by ourselves.
Mid afternoon Greg & Wanda booked in. Then carwash time, with Peter C providing a “cook’s tour” to the local car wash. The ground ran red from the red dust on the 4 vehicles.
Tony and Jen caught up with Dean and Karen for evening meal, while the other five went to an Indian restaurant.
CAIRNS – Heritage Boutique Hotel–19/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
Ground Hog Day - up at 6.00 pack-up tent and have breakfast and be ready by 8.00am for departure. Farewells to our MVP – Peter & Sue Daunton as they were heading towards Atherton on their way home to Brisbane. Greg & Wanda, Dean & Karen were going to tackle the difficult Creb track, high up on the ridges of the mountain ranges – estimated distance /time 62 klm in approx 4hrs.
Dot & Michael, Tony & Jen moved off to tackle the Bloomfield Track [38klm] which meandered through the Daintree rainforest and came out at Cape Tribulation. Stunning views of rainforest reaching down to the beach. A stop and walk to the beautiful beach and bay. Intricate patterns of small micro ball bearing size sand balls had been left all over the sand by small crabs.
On the coastal plain we passed sugar and banana plantations in production – many of the cane fields had
The satellite suburbs of Cairns start some 30klms out from the City centre. We reach our boutique Hotel – “Tropical Heritage”, which is in a great location – which is within walking distance to the City Esplanade and eating houses. Cairns is a real tourist town – a melting pot of cultures.
Peter C & Jill P arrive and settle in to the hotel. They advise that they by-passed Ayton and stayed in the Daintree overnight. This morning they spent 4 hrs in the Daintree Discovery Centre [aerial walkway] – mind blowing Peter C’s description of this facility. Peter C advised that they were picking up the CB radio transmissions, on and off, of Greg/Wanda and Dean/Karen high up on their 4wd of the mountain ridges.
We all walk into the city along the Esplanade foreshore and Tony & Jen direct us to the Night Market, where the food vendors [ mainly Asian] charge you for the plate size [ 4 sizes ranging from $9.00 – $14.00] and then you self serve from up to 24 different dishes. Some New Zealand Maoris or Tongans/Samoans were there and their plate was piled so high – if we attempted to consume this volume we would have been sick. The dinner was concluded with luscious ice cream/sorbet from the New Zealand Ice Cream company.
At the back of the food court section, were a range of market vendors with diverse product lines aimed at tourists to buy as a memento of their trip to Australia. Bulk of these vendors were from Asia.
Walk back to the hotel in the balmy evening for a sleep in a real bed!!!!!!!
.
Monday, September 19, 2011
Ayton Camping Ground–18/09/11
Cadet Reporter: Michael Gavin
6.00am revelry, with all ready and packed well before 8.00am, including breakfast and chit chat in the stunning camp kitchen.
Slow start with a visit to local bakery for morning tea supplies and then out of town. The arrangements were for everyone to make their way to Ayton under their own steam.
First stop being Black Mountain – a National Park mountain range with all the rocks a black colour – some sort of lichen. Then on to a unique pub called “The Lion’s Den” – first established in 1875 and held within the same family to 1964. The pub has a lot of very strange memorabilia and pictures displayed – a favourite haunt of bikies apparently.
Then onto the sleepy little village of Ayton – an old caravan park, but with a generous camp kitchen with utensils etc and entertaining area plus pleasant garden surroundings, including lady finger bananas, coconut palms plus many others and colourful waratah ginger in flower.
The first three to arrive were Tony & Jen, Dean & Karen and Michael & Dot. After tent setup it was off to the beach. Dot found a coconut just off the beach and for the next half an hour or so, Tony & Michael wrestled with taking the outer husk off…chisels, hammer, screwdriver and bow saw were used. Finally success and we were able to get milk from the coconut and then sample the meat. The half of the coconut meat was eaten and the rest taken back for the others at camp.
Peter D & Sue, Greg & Wanda were next to arrive and all except Tony & Jen undertook a sandy track, just above the beach, to the mouth of attractive river. The deep sand was challenging in places, but the experience built up over recent weeks enabled us all to get through unscathed. No sign of any crocs, however mud crabs attempted to steal bait from hand line.
Then off to Bloomfield Falls at Wujal Wujal – quite spectacular for the dry season. The 600 m walk was through the higher level dry rocky river bed. In the wet season the walk in would be under water, plus the water going over the falls would be up to 5 times wider and this would be extra special.
The aboriginal communities at Wujal Wujal, Bloomfield and Ayton were well presented and we received friendly waves as we drove through.
Peter C & Jill P bypassed Ayton and went onto camp in the Daintree….will catch up tomorrow to get their details.
We all retired to bed after usual get together in the camp kitchen area….all relieved that the strong gusty wind experienced in Cooktown was not here.
COOKTOWN - 17/09/11
Cadet Reporter : Michael GavinWe all book in for a further night, with a number of site shuffles to accommodate our group being together. The motel room users vacated by 10.00am and moved to setup their tents. The park facilities were first class with a very large camp cooking/dining facility under cover. The toilet/shower facilities were very different to those previously encountered. There were approximately 12 or 14 individual en-suite units, each containing shower, toilet, hand-basin, separate clothes storage and dressing area [approx 2m x 2m].
No 6.00am revely this morning. Leisurely breakfast on the porch with Peter and Sue, then joined by Peter Conroy. We had the luxury of a toaster, so we all enjoyed toast as part of our breakfast. Peter C proceeded to demolish the remainder of the “old” bread and turn it into toast.
Tony and Jen arrived not long after 10.00 to update us on their stunning night.
All proceeded to town in little groups to take in the sights and atmosphere of the town. A very basic market was being held at one end of town towards the wharf area. The offerings were very diverse from craft to some minimal food stalls. Dot purchase a kilo of bananas for $4.00 from a local – she was told to select her own bananas and the told “ to select another mate” to bring it up to the kilo. He informed us that a local from a nearby community was lobbying authorities to ban individuals from having “wild” fruit trees – only commercial growers should be able to grow fruit.
It was very relaxing strolling down taking in the historical pictorial displays of Cooktown. Coffee time saw Peter D & Sue, Dot & Michael catching up with Greg & Wanda at Jackey – Jackey run by a very stressed little Chinese descendent. The influx of customers – approx 10 was stressing him out to get all the orders before starting to prepare their requests. The iced coffee was very refreshing.
On the way back to the park, Peter D was very busy snapping war memorabilia – machine guns and tanks. After lunch peter D & Sue, Dot & Michael drove to take in the sights of the Lookout Tower, which had been recommended by a number of others. The Lookout Tower is located on a very large steep hill overlooking Cooktown. Greg & Wanda, Dean & Karen walked to the top from the base – a magnificent achievement.
The 360 degree panoramic view was breathtaking – taking in the coast, the river estuary system and the mountain hinterland. This recent development has locals and businesses names on fired terracotta tiles inlaid in the construction. A perfect picture opportunity for our shutterbugs – Peter D & Dot. This is a tremendous asset to Cooktown.
From the Lookout Tower, it was off to the Botanic Gardens. Before entering the Gardens we had to enter the information area, containing a book shop and display area. Sue & Dot both did damage to the bank balance with the purchase of a large book on The Butterflies of Australia….this was endorsed by the Information Staff as an excellent book. Following wandering around an interesting display – photograph of large snake swallowing a wallaby, plus 3.2m shed skin of a large snake, it was a leisurely stroll around the gardens.
The native and exotic plants were interesting….the Melaleucas [paperbarks were monsters – between 20m – 30m high and multi trunked between 3- 5 m in girth].so different to our Victorian melaleucas. After and hour or so strolling around we came across Greg and Wanda’s vehicle in the car park – a suitable message was left in the dust.
As this was the last time the current 12 were all to be together, we assembled at the local bowling club for “The Last Supper”. The venue was very busy and loud as there appears to be a bowling competition over the weekend. After this we all reassembled at the Park Camp Kitchen for a final drink and farewell words.
Peter D summed up the sentiment of the Group with a big thank you to Tony and Jen for their organisation of the trip, and the fantastic companionship and friendliness of all members of the Tag Along Party.
After this we all retired to bed for a very restless and fitful sleep, as the wind was howling and blowing all night, shuddering the tents. The wind gusts could be heard coming….like a train!
COOKTOWN–BIG 4 CARAVAN PARK - 16/09/11
Cadet Reporter : Michael Gavin - Apologies for the change of style
Endeavour Falls Tourist Park, with everyone up early or another big day with Aboriginal rock art tour scheduled for 8.30am.
Everyone is in the routine with a prompt pack-up and breakfast. As we are waiting or some of the others the Park Manager introduces us to the feeding of their 2 foot plus [700 – 750mm] barramundi in a glass display tank. Dot is first cab off the rank to feed a prawn to the fish….taken with a very loud snap. Tony arrives and is invited to feed the fish. Michael is able to capture on video the very fast recoiling action of Tony’s hand & arm, plus the surprised expression on Tony’s face. Others then share the experience.
The Tourist Park has a barramundi pond, a range of cattle breeds, including a Texan Longhorn with horns tip to tip being 6feet [1.8m] wide. White bantam chickens that have had their heads and bottoms dyed pick, green and blue complement the menagerie. We commented on how our Belle would love the pink coloured bantam.
A short drive to Guurbi Tour site-near Hope Vale, where our Greg Fitzgerald with a Rotary member team
After the tour, lunch was taken on the site, using the steel cyclone proof facility Greg had assisted in constructing in 2006 – Greg had engraved his name & date in the concrete step in 2006.
After lunch it was off to the beach through the aboriginal township of Hope Vale – approximately 45 minutes drive predominantly on unmade roads. 5 minutes down the road, the group of six vehicles were all pulled over for a breathalyser and questioned over whether we had any alcohol on board.
Threatening rain clouds made the decision for most to head for Cooktown – [1 hr+ drive] to seek cabin/camping sites. Tony and Jen instead decided to camp at the beach site. According to Tony they had a wonderful night around their campfire a couple of metres from the water, with a visit by aboriginal elder Eddie. He provided a background of our morning guide Willie.
The Big 4 Tourist Park was selected in Cooktown, with Peter & Sue Daunton and Michael & Dot arriving first. With the threat of serious rain, the last of the motel rooms were selected. The rest of the group arrived and took camping sites. Pre dinner nibbles & drinks at Michael & Dot’s porch facility, resulted in take-away pizzas being ordered [2 to start with, followed by a further 2 due to the sizes being – medium, not extra large].
Everyone resolved to stay a second night, so as we could all have a good look around Cooktown – named after Captain James Cook, who landed here to make repairs to his Endeavour ship on his discovery journey of Australia.
The wind blew all night in very strong gusts.
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Endeavour Falls Tourist Park 15-09-11
Happy 5th Birthday Belle! I hope you have a wonderful party. I’m sorry Pa and I won’t be there, but we’ll see you soon.
Hi Jenine, Peter sends his best. Hehe so do we all. I hope you have enjoyed the blog.
We travelled on a pink road today. The colours of the soils are amazing, the wonderful red that is associated with the centre through orange to pink, there are also patches of white.
The vegetation is changing too, the trees are getting larger and there is an understory of shrubbery in the bush instead of spinifex.
Road works are huge on this road, I don’t think I have ever seen so much plant in action. The QLD government is spending a fortune out here.
We are lucky enough to see some goannas on the road and are careful not to run over them as they scurry out of our way.
We stopped at a place called the Red Lily Lagoon. This is a very large (some kms) lagoon filled with the red 
lotus lily, it must be an amazing sight when they are all in flower. We have come at the end of their flowering, but there are a few flowers left. There is a lot of damage around the edge of the lagoon made by wild pigs, they dig up an amazing amount of soil in their rooting about.
We stopped at Laura for lunch where Greg and Wanda caught up with some friends. Laura is quite a pretty little town with large mango trees lining the street. The mangos are not ripe yet though mores the pity.
The Quinkan legends come from here and there is an interesting information centre. Just out of town of town there are some rock paintings where the story keeper is a ‘white fella’.
The picture on the right is the jail, at one time they had 18 aborigines chained together in this small space. Some aborigines from here were sent to victoria as trackers to track the Kelly gang.
We have some fun on this road, there are patches where it is just like a roller coaster. As we neared our destination we came around a bend and there was an incredible valley, (Mt Unbelievable – or as Greg said – Mt Bloody Unbelievable. Hehe) with a steep winding (bitumen) road running through it. Unfortunately there are no pictures since it was too dangerous to stop anywhere. It was beautiful.
Arrived at endeavour Tourist Park where we will stay the night. Tomorrow we have a date with Willie for a guided tour through his country.
Friday, September 16, 2011
Pompuraaw 14-09-11
Happy birthday Michael!!!!
In the beginning of our new day, the roads were covered with deep sand which was challenging for the beginners, then it became wide and in quite good condition.
We were a tad apprehensive about other river crossings that were to come. There is a lot of roadwork happening in this area and we spoke to several of the indigenous guys who were working on the roads about the upcoming rivers. It seemed that it would be OK and so it was.
We reached Pompuraaw (quite a nice little town with the CBD being paved in large tiles) to find the town quiet and the land council building shut. Apparently there was a funeral being conducted at that time, so we felt we shouldn’t intrude and drove out to have a look at the beach.
The tide was out…a LONG way.
Most of what you see in this picture is beach, the water is just visible on the horizon (of the picture)
We decided to move on to Musgrove station to camp for the night.
Shelfa 13-09-11
We farewelled John and Lanlan this morning. John is worried about his tyres, he has no more spares, he also wants to be in a nice place where he can have a nice romantic dinner with Lanlan for his birthday. We will miss them.
Wanda and Greg are in the lead today, this is well deserved since they take the tale end on numerous occasions and poor Wanda has to close all the gates we open. It is also felt that they have eaten enough of our dust!
We see quite a few brolgas, kites, bustards (yes with a U) and wedgies today
We are travelling to Kowanyama for a look, this is an aboriginal territory and we must have yet another permit, we call into the land council to pay and are advised as to where we can camp and where we should cross the river. Greg leads us to the river and…..hmmm it looks kind of scary, very wide, looks deep and rocky, the current also appears strong. Tony tells us on the CB that we have missed the turning to the advised river crossing and we backtrack to a very wide, very sandy beach. It doesn’t look much better here.
There is a car noise in the distance and a car comes down to the river (where we have just come from) to cross. Peter C thinks that someone should be paying close attention and drives across the deep sand and….gets bogged. Peter cannot budge, Tony reduced the pressure in his tyres and drove across the sand to help him with a tow. Hehe. Tony gets bogged!!!!
All ends well and they are able to come back to us. Other cars (with aboriginals) go through without any trouble and we notice that although they are familiar with the crossing, they still get out and have a look.
Tony and Michael decide to walk the crossing and check out any significantly dangerous bits. Sensibly they put cairns down to mark the passage, which involves driving down the river for a bit. There is a steep deep sandy hill just on the other side and the instruction is to ‘gun’ it to get up.
Wanda and Greg are in the lead today, this is well deserved since they take the tale end on numerous occasions and poor Wanda has to close all the gates we open. It is also felt that they have eaten enough of our dust! We see quite a few brolgas, kites, bustards (yes with a U) and wedgies today
We are travelling to Kowanyama for a look, this is an aboriginal territory and we must have yet another permit, we call into the land council to pay and are advised as to where we can camp and where we should cross the river. Greg leads us to the river and…..hmmm it looks kind of scary, very wide, looks deep and rocky, the current also appears strong. Tony tells us on the CB that we have missed the turning to the advised river crossing and we backtrack to a very wide, very sandy beach. It doesn’t look much better here.There is a car noise in the distance and a car comes down to the river (where we have just come from) to cross. Peter C thinks that someone should be paying close attention and drives across the deep sand and….gets bogged. Peter cannot budge, Tony reduced the pressure in his tyres and drove across the sand to help him with a tow. Hehe. Tony gets bogged!!!!
All ends well and they are able to come back to us. Tony and Michael decide to walk the crossing and check out any significantly dangerous bits. Sensibly they put cairns down to mark the passage, which involves driving down the river for a bit. There is a steep deep sandy hill just on the other side and the instruction is to ‘gun’ it to get up.
Karumba 12-09-11
Went into Normanton to do some shopping for our next leg of the journey. Called into the bakery which was an eye opener, he had very little – 1/2 doz cream buns, 1/2 doz fruit buns, lots of sliced bread with signs telling us not to squeeze or pinch the bread and…..some pies and sausage rolls. One of the customers asked him what flavour pies he had and he replied “Plain and that’s the way it should be, then you don't have to make a decision”!
We went to the information centre which was very interesting and then made our way onto Karumba. On the way we saw lots of brolgas on the plains just before the town. The country around here is FLAT!
We went to Raptis for lunch – this little cafe specialises in seafood. I had a barramundi burger, not that great, others had fish battered and served with chips and pronounced it very nice.
Michael and John’s birthdays are coming up and we will be away from any towns, John’s and Lanlan are also
In the afternoon I had asked about cake and they weren’t sure that they could do that, Tony tried at the bakery on our behalf to no avail. When I went to get Michael’s desert and asked them to put a candle on it (Tony had given me a packet) the young man we had been dealing with asked if I would like a cake!!! Yes, yes and Yes.
My camera doesn’t do justice to the sunset I’m afraid
Monday, September 12, 2011
Normanton 11-09-11
Set off at 9:00 this morning, heading to Normanton and Susan’s second cousins (and her husband’s) farm, where we stayed the night.
The road was really good for such a minor one, they were doing lots of maintenance due to the influence of the mining companies that use it so we only had a couple of ‘dodgy’ patches. we passed four or five huge road trains passing us. This is quite an experience, you have to get off the road to give them absolute right of way since they have little manoeuvrability. They would just plough anything down that got in their way. The dust they kick up is incredible and one is blind until it settles.
We stopped at Gregory Downs for a rest (hehe LOO stop) and were quite amazed at the width of the roads and the road trains parked there
After Gregory Downs, the road was BITUMEN. We are always so glad when we encounter this, the cars purr along and there is NO DUST!
We pushed on and came to Burke and Wills Roadhouse where there was a Camp draft (horse event) and Susan’s cousins family were there competing (this is approx 200 km from their property). We followed Kelvin back to the farm. He suggested that we put our CB radios onto channel 40 (the truckies channel) so that we could hear him and any information from road trains coming through. It was quite funny to hear their comments back and forth to each other about the suicidal tourists (not us we have been well trained), who do not get off the roads to let them come through. One of the drivers was quite happy with us and helped us to pass him by letting us know when the road was clear up ahead.
We finally arrive at the farm to be made welcome by the family, dogs and a kid (of the goat kind). Kelvin, Tamara, Matilda, Neve and Charli (identical twins) are truly wonderful people. Kelvin is the butcher, a farmer, the undertaker (yep you read correctly – apparently they swap the signage on the car according to which function it is doing), the captain of the SES and the CFA, an amazing man, Tamara is a teacher and is heavily involved in the running of the farm. We are in awe of the lives they lead and their capacity to cope with whatever is thrown at them in terms of weather (flood, fire or drought). And believe you me the flood here are something else, the water rises 10 to 14 metres and they can be completely cut off for three months. They showed us to our campsite and spent some of the evening with us around the campfire. Matilda (10) sat with me and gave me a very long chat about here life in the country. I was extremely impressed by this young lady. The twins seemed to enjoy our company and kept on ‘scaring’ Dean as he worked on getting his and Karen's tea.
We were camped alongside a large river (the Norman? not sure and didn’t think to ask.) Tamara pointed out a large crocodile sunning itself on the far shore. She gives us ‘the crocodile talk’ and tells us that we are in no danger.
Hehe. Tony erects a ‘fence’ in front of his tent. The unfortunate part about this is that: if the crocodile should encounter his fence and follow it around, it will come straight to our tent. SIGH. Headcount in the morning showed that we had all survived the night. Haha.
Adel’s Grove 10-09-11
It was very windy last night! We are camped under trees (the Grove) some of them very, very tall mangos. They are apparently turpentine mangos and as such are inedible. Never mind about edible we were only 
Today all of us except Tony and Jen (who have been on another occasion) booked to go on the fossil tour to Riversleigh. Left at 8:00 AM and set off in a small commuter bus. This was great for our drivers as they could relax and look at the scenery. Peter D did not have to worry about punctures. LOL (laugh out
The tour guide – John – was a mine of information, telling us about the trees, flowers, grasses, birds and animals as we went. The fossils themselves were rather small in quantity, although John says there are hundreds of sites in Riversleigh only this one is open to the public.
We had morning tea at the Gregory River crossing and then travelled back. We also saw remnant of mining and farming. We are all astonished at the fortitude and courage of the early pioneers, men and women alike.
Back to Adel’s Grove for nice lunch where Tony and Jen joined us.
John caught a fish late in the afternoon, quite a decent size. Apparently it was a sooty grunter. Lanlan (who loves fish) cooked it for her tea. Oh Dear – another tough fish!! Until this trip most of us had never heard of such a thing. When mentioned to the manager, he siad that it was too big, they throw those back and keep the smaller ones. Here we all are looking to catch ‘the big one’.
I had to drive to the top of a hill a couple of kms from Adel’s grove to send up the blog. There are patches of phone connection around the place (but not in it), we drive around until we ‘get some bars’ then yippee! We chose the hill and as you see it was successful.
Tony and Dean borrow a fellow travellers plastic canoe and take it out on the river. They come back very enthusiastic about it and Tony at least will probably have one by next trip. Hehe
We had group nibbles before tea, very pleasant.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Adel’s Grove 09-09-11
Canoeing today! Tony has persuaded everyone except Susan to take the canoes up the river. We are to
We set off, Dean, Peter, Greg and Tony are experts Michael and I are not. We make it through the first gorge, land and drag our canoes approx 40 metres until the next launching point.
Here we meet Susan, she has enjoyed a pleasant walk across the top of the gorge and has beaten us. Hehe, then we have to get in, with help all went well.
Lanlan is terrified of the whole thing and decides to get out at the landing and walk back with Susan
The seasoned kayakers 
Greg, Tony, Peter, Michael and I go for a swim, surprising for such a large body of water, it is warm.
Dean and Karen get back 1/2 hour early and are given a refund (we were given 2 hours to complete the journey). The others get back within the time but Michael and I do not and should have paid extra, however, the lovely Mick waives the fee since we were all having fun.
During the trip Tony was sure that he saw a fresh water croc, we also saw a large turtle sunning itself on a rock.
Back to Adels grove for lunch and a lazy afternoon.
Later, John, Michael, Tony, Greg and I go fishing. Not a lot of luck, a couple of very small ones that went back and… 6 turtles!!!! Fortunately they did not swallow hooks and let go. I was worried though, around about 5:30 they just kept on grabbing the bait. I really didn’t want to hurt one, so I gave up.
John and Lanlan came down to the restaurant after tea to ask if they would put the football on TV. The Answer NO!! This apparently is against the owners wishes since everyone here is supposed to want to get away from all that. Hmmm when I came in to type today, I see a notice on the board to come and join them for a rugby broadcast at lunchtime tomorrow. Does this smack of bias to anyone?
Adel’s Grove 08-09-11
Happy birthday Greg!
Greg turned 60 today. A biggie.
Greg, Wanda, Dean and Karen went walking at Lawn Hill. Lanlan, John, Tony, Jen, Peter D, Susan, Michael and I did the nature walk around Adel’s Grove. Went up the lookout and came across some amazing cairns that walkers have built over time. We added stones to mark our pass through.
John, Michael and I went fishing in the afternoon – no luck, lot’s of little fish just nibbled off our bait. Peter D dozed in his chair near the river.
nibbles and drinks provided by Wanda. Very pleasant indeed. The restaurant cooked chicken parmigana for our dinner, followed by a sort of trifle. they then brought in a muffin with a sparkler for his cake. Lanlan and John sang happy birthday in Chinese, Jen sang it in Latin and the rest of us managed 
Thanks to Peter D for the great photos
Adels Grove 07-09-11
We didn’t have far to travel today, so Tony let us off for an 11:00 start. Michael wakes up unwell, dizzy queasy. We all take our time packing and I worry about Michael.
Karen makes some scones on Tony’s fire and they were quite successful. Tony was particularly pleased. He tells me he ate them with jam and cream.
The track we are to take to Adel’s grove is marked as a 4wd only track and I may have to drive – I have not done any real 4wdriving. I go to see Tony and tell him that Michael is sick and that I may have to drive. He tells me not to worry, he will drive with me and keep an eye on me. Whew.
There are some nice walks around here (the river is very wide), so Greg, Dean and Tony set off to explore the area. Susan gives Michael some gastrolyte in case he is suffering from dehydration. Michael throws up and says he now feels a little better. He is able to drive.
The road is very good, better than the stony road we travelled where all the punctures occurred. Only a couple of sandy patches and a tricky river crossing. They are doing roadwork on it so a lot of it is really very good . It is surprising to see roadwork in the of nowhere when the other road would have more use.
Adel’s grove is very nice – we stay here for 4 nights.
5 river crossings today.
King Fisher Camp 06-09-11
I didn’t think that I would have much to say today since we were to be on dirt roads for 400+kms, but it turned out to be quite exciting.
Started off at our usual 8:00 AM start, Dean and Karen leading. Peter D’s radio was broadcasting but not receiving and Tony asked Dean to stop to tell him same. Tony told Michael and me to go on and take the lead. Our instructions were to stop at 10:15 for a break, then it was changed to ‘find a nice river and stop etc’. We were getting desperate, no nice rivers, Tony then said ‘find a shady spot’
Hmm, the Robinson River crossing appears on the GPS and we decide to try there. Great, it is really very
Hehe, there is also the chance that we may end up on the editors floor so to speak. But it was interesting and great fun.
The sad part about the river is that here were thousands of cane toad tadpoles and very many tiny cane toads. This could lead to devastation of the fish life and reptiles around this river. We have been speaking to local people wherever we meet them and they are reporting a great reduction in numbers of lizards and snakes.
We are next asked to find a nice shady spot for lunch – a big ask. As luck would have it, just when we were deciding to just stop wherever we can find a safe place, we find quite a nice spot off the road for everyone with some shade. Everyone pulls up, we are eating lunch when Peter D says “Michael you have a flat tyre”. Oh dear. The pit stop crew (Peter C John and Tony) get to work and it is changed in no time. This make 9 punctures between us.
Later in the afternoon Greg comes over and says ‘let’s have a look at that tyre’ he and Michael are able to repair it!!! (with the ARB puncture kit that Michael bought so it has had some use. I think most of the cars are equipped with same.
The cane toad count for tonight is 148
King Ash Bay 5-09-11
John is able to get his tyre mended, Peter C and Tony have lent Peter D a tyre each. Peter D has decided at least to travel on with us to Adel’s grove and make further decisions there. Peter D does research on tyres (it has been decided that he has the wrong tyres for the roads – he has now had 5 punctures. This can’t be unlucky coincidence). He contacts a family member and is having new tyres shipped to Normanton. Phew. I guess he will see what happens now.
The word has travelled by grapevine and many people in the camp now know about the man who has blown 5 tyres. Peter would rather not have this reputation.
There is a helicopter flight out from here and Tony goes down to wheel and deal a better price for us. Full 
Interesting trip, you could see large tracts of sand where the water usually runs (this is the dry season) and a very large number of rivers, people are camped in quite remote spots along the McArthur River (where King Ash Bay is situated).
Again, the people we have met here have been wonderful and helpful, the people who chatted to us last night to build up our spirits and to tell us the best places to fish, the mechanic (John could believe the price he was charged and gave him $20 extra, the people in the store who sold Michael a rod tip, then gave him sandpaper and glue to fix it, then lent him a net to catch bait fish (and gave him a lesson). HEHE, after one hour he caught 2 small catfish and spiked himself on their spines. I can’t imagine what fish would want to eat them.
The picture left is Peter D on the ‘Telstra rock’. This is reputedly the only place one can get phone reception (and only if you have Telstra) Peter had no luck, but it was funny to watch.
Cane toad count tonight 59
Cane toad count todate: 184
King Ash Bay 4-09-11
T
he day started well, we were not to leave until 9:00 since we didn’t seem to have an enormous drive ahead of us. Tony, Jen, Michael and I drove down to the Roper Bar ( a concrete course way across a rocky bar in the river which apparently was the way Leichardt came on his expedition. We drove across and back just because we could and Tony threw a line in (no luck) Greg got up early and went fishing (no real luck, a couple of tiddlers). We then drove up to look at the store (in a wire compound) and out onto the road. Tony spots a buffalo in a paddock at least 300 metres away! How does he do it. John, Lanlan, Peter and Susan arrived now and they walked to get closer to the animal for photos (well Tony, Peter and John did, the rest of us stayed well back). LOL (laugh out loud).
Peter C loses his driving light. An oncoming car noticed it and stopped one of us to alert him to it. Unfortunately it was too late, the damage is too severe. Peter’s number plate has become detached in a river crossing. We are certainly knocking up the damage.
Took off down the Savannah way to a set of ruins and a lagoon ……….Peter D pulled up at the ruins and…puncture – the third tyre blown for him now. The Lagoon was beautiful and the tyre was quickly changed and off we went.
Crossed some beautiful rivers and some extremely interesting country. There are piles and ‘rivers’ (large) of rocks everywhere, the landscape is littered with rocks, it is a puzzle as to how this feature was formed. The rocks are not huge, maybe on average 30-40 cms across. Really weird.
Oh dear!!!! CB radio message. Peter D has another flat tyre (no.4 now) he is devastated as you would imagine. Greg, Wanda, Dean and Karen are travelling with him (we have spread out a bit due to the dust clouds being thrown up) and Greg helps to change the tyre.
Initially we all stop to wait until Tony says that we should move on, there is no purpose waiting since he is getting all the help we requires.
We drive on a bit further and…..John gets a flat tyre, Tony comes back and Peter C and he change the tyre. We are now a little concerned that we have had a flat which should have given the others time to catch up. We drive on. This road is extremely punishing on the tyres and the cars, lots of corrugations and very sharp stones. ( Dean has since read in a little book provided in the NT on 4wd, that you should have 2 spares when you travel this road!!!!).
We are becoming increasingly worried. We come to the intersection to Boroolaloo and wait again, it is now getting later and there is still approx 100 km to go. Tony tells, John, Lanlan Peter C, Jill P, Michael and me to continue on to King Ash Grove and to secure sites for everyone. He will wait for the others. We are really concerned at leaving Tony and wondering where on earth the others are. We go on.
Come to King Ash Bay, 5:20 ish and are appalled, this is full of caravans and fishing boats. We really don’t think Tony will like this at all. Still, no choice so we find enough space for all of us and set up.
This place has a bar and restaurant!!!! Plastic chairs under sails. We decide to take our cars to the restaurant and park them in a prominent position so that we will be seen by the others as soon as they arrive.
Time drags on, it is now 6:30 and getting dark, still no sign of them. Michael and John go out every 5 mins and call on the CB radios. Finally we decide that we had better order dinner (roast night). About 7 ish, Michael calls again and they answer, they are about 11 km out!! Relief.
They are all stressed and tired, but OK. Peter D had got another flat tyre, 3 in one day!!!! Greg had managed to patch the last puncture and they crawled along the last 90 kms, stopping every now and again to pump it up. Tony has put his spare onto Peter and Susan’s car. Peter D now has quite a problem, all of his tyres are now goners. He and Susan have to decide if they can travel on with us.
Tony and Jen waited an hour and a half for them at the crossing. Tony was just weighing up whether or not he should drive back when they appeared.
They walk into the restaurant. thank God.
The roast dinner was just what was wanted and the day is finished on a happier note. Early to bed.
Quote of the day:
Peter D to John: When you come to the dark red dirt, the river crossing is just around the bend.
John: What bloody good is that information to me?
Silence!
Then
Peter D: Oh I forgot you were colour-blind!
We made 22 or 23 river/creek crossings today.
Gunlam 1-09-11
Had a leisurely start today as we are not going far. First stop was Maguk (Barramundi )gorge. A walk of about 1.5 km the last part very rocky. It was very hot as usual so some decided not to walk the full distance. The plunge pool at the end was gorgeous (as usual), but there was no shade and nowhere to sit. The access to the pool was very narrow.
On the way though, the river wound its way through the rocks and was crystal clear and full of tiny fish. I was told that they were black bream, but have no idea if that is true. All of the rivers here are teeming with fish, most of the visible ones are tiny, but their mummies and daddies must be somewhere.
Then it was onto Gunlom. This is a popular camping ground with a plunge pool. Very pleasant swimming, waterfall, sandy bottom, not too cold. Very pleasant afternoon and evening, then bedtime. Well, I have never heard so much noise from the bush in my life. The curlews screeched, something flapped over our campsite all night, the brumbies crashed about, something else scurried about, babies cried, something squeaked, the cane toads called each other, a wild pig thought to help himself to Peter C’s camp,( he chased it off.) then in the morning the cockatoos settled themselves over our camp and had a screeching match with each other.
Tony, Dean and Karen get up early to walk to the top of the falls, Tony pronounced it absolutely stunning with lovely green pools surrounded by white sand over the top. Dean was equally impressed so Wanda and Greg walk up too.
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