King Ash Bay 4-09-11

 

The day started well, we were not to leave until 9:00 since we didn’t seem to have an enormous drive ahead of us.  Tony, Jen, Michael and I drove down to the Roper Bar ( a concrete course way across a rocky bar in the river which apparently was the way Leichardt came on his expedition.  We drove across and back just because we could and Tony threw a line in (no luck)  Greg got up early and went fishing (no real luck, a couple of tiddlers).  We then drove up to look at the store (in a wire compound) and out onto the road.  Tony spots a buffalo in a paddock at least 300 metres away!  How does he do it.  John, Lanlan, Peter and Susan arrived now and they walked to get closer to the animal for photos (well Tony, Peter and John did, the rest of us stayed well back).  LOL (laugh out loud).

Peter C loses his driving light.  An oncoming car noticed it and stopped one of us to alert him to it.  Unfortunately it was too late, the damage is too severe.  Peter’s number plate has become detached in a river crossing.  We are certainly knocking up the damage.

Took off down the Savannah way to a set of ruins and a lagoon ……….Peter D pulled up at the ruins and…puncture – the third tyre blown for him now.  The Lagoon was beautiful and the tyre was quickly changed and off we went.

Crossed some beautiful rivers and some extremely interesting country.  There are piles and ‘rivers’ (large) of rocks everywhere, the landscape is littered with rocks, it is a puzzle as to how this feature was formed.  The rocks are not huge, maybe on average 30-40 cms across.  Really weird.

Oh dear!!!!  CB radio message.  Peter D has another flat tyre (no.4 now)  he is devastated as you would imagine.  Greg, Wanda, Dean and Karen are travelling with him (we have spread out a bit due to the dust clouds being thrown up) and Greg helps to change the tyre. 

Initially we all stop to wait until Tony says that we should move on, there is no purpose waiting since he is getting all the help we requires.

We drive on a bit further and…..John gets a flat tyre, Tony comes back and Peter C and he change the tyre.  We are now a little concerned that we have had a flat which should have given the others time to catch up.  We drive on.  This road is extremely punishing on the tyres and the cars, lots of corrugations and very sharp stones.  ( Dean has since read in a little book provided in the NT on 4wd, that you should have 2 spares when you travel this road!!!!).

We are becoming increasingly worried.  We come to the intersection to Boroolaloo and wait again, it is now getting later and there is still approx 100 km to go.  Tony tells, John, Lanlan Peter C, Jill P, Michael and me to continue on to King Ash Grove and to secure sites for everyone.  He will wait for the others.  We are really concerned at leaving Tony and wondering where on earth the others are.  We go on.

Come to King Ash Bay, 5:20 ish and are appalled, this is full of caravans and fishing boats.  We really don’t think Tony will like this at all.  Still, no choice so we find enough space for all of us and set up.

This place has a bar and restaurant!!!!  Plastic chairs under sails.  We decide to take our cars to the restaurant and park them in a prominent position so that we will be seen by the others as soon as they arrive.

Time drags on, it is now 6:30 and getting dark, still no sign of them.  Michael and John go out every 5 mins and call on the CB radios.  Finally we decide that we had better order dinner (roast night).  About 7 ish, Michael calls again and they answer, they are about 11 km out!!  Relief.

They are all stressed and tired, but OK.  Peter D had got another flat tyre, 3 in one day!!!!  Greg had managed to patch the last puncture and they crawled along the last 90 kms, stopping every now and again to pump it up. Tony has put his spare onto Peter and Susan’s car. Peter D now has quite a problem, all of his tyres are now goners.  He and Susan have to decide if they can travel on with us.

Tony and Jen waited an hour and a half for them at the crossing.  Tony was just weighing up whether or not he should drive back when they appeared.

They walk into the restaurant.  thank God.

The roast dinner was just what was wanted and the day is finished on a happier note.  Early to bed.

Quote of the day:

Peter D to John:  When you come to the dark red dirt, the river crossing is just around the bend.

John:  What bloody good is that information to me?

Silence!

Then

Peter D:  Oh I forgot you were colour-blind!

We made 22 or 23 river/creek crossings today.

Gunlam 1-09-11

 

Had a leisurely start today as we are not going far. First stop was Maguk (Barramundi )gorge.  A walk of about 1.5 km the last part very rocky.  It was very hot as usual so some decided not to walk the full distance.  The plunge pool at the end was gorgeous (as usual), but there was no shade and nowhere to sit.  The access to the pool was very narrow.

On the way though, the river wound its way through the rocks and was crystal clear and full of tiny fish.  I was told that they were black bream, but have no idea if that is true. All of the rivers here are teeming with fish, most of the visible ones are tiny, but their mummies and daddies must be somewhere.

Then it was onto Gunlom.  This is a popular camping ground with a plunge pool.  Very pleasant swimming, waterfall, sandy bottom, not too cold.  Very pleasant afternoon and evening, then bedtime.  Well, I have never heard so much noise from the bush in my life.  The curlews screeched, something flapped over our campsite all night, the brumbies crashed about, something else scurried about, babies cried, something squeaked, the cane toads called each other, a wild pig thought to help himself to Peter C’s camp,( he chased it off.)  then in the morning the cockatoos settled themselves over our camp and had a screeching match with each other.

Tony, Dean and Karen get up early to walk to the top of the falls, Tony pronounced it absolutely stunning with lovely green pools surrounded by white sand over the top.  Dean was equally impressed so Wanda and Greg walk up too.

Katherine 3-09-11

 

 

Early morning and I am catching up while the cars are being packed.  For some our big shop yesterday is proving a problem.. Hehe nowhere to put anything.

Tony has just discovered that his fridge is not working (gone to God says Tony).  Greg, Peter D and he will try to get it going before we leave.  Greg discovered a split in one of his engines hoses (something to do with the oil) that was sucking in dust, he has fixed it of course.  These three guys are amazing, between them they seem to be able to fix anything.  Thank god they are here.

These top end towns have incredible security for their premises (starting at Alice).  Shops have mesh screens and motels are in ‘compounds’ large gates with codes of some kind that we have to use.

We are going to breakfast at the coffee club and will farewell Jill and Norbert before we leave.

Tony’s fridge is fixed.  It was a fuse!

There may not be any updates for a while.  We are about to start our trek across the gulf.  I do not expect to have phone or Internet connection very often, if at all.

 

Love to you all from all of us

Continued:

Arrived at the thermal pools in m………..and had a dip – very pleasant in the water which was tepid in temperature, however, there was an overpowering smell of bat however and you could see them in the trees overhead.

We drove on to Roper Bar camping ground for the night, quite a serene spot, the river was nearby (not too close for crocs) and the mosquito population seemed down on some of the last camps we have had.

Karen was frightened by a little olive python in the ladies toilet in the evening (there was no light) and Peter D and Tony, picked it up on a shovel and relocated it.  Apparently it seemed quite docile during this operation.

this camp was a lot quieter than some of the other buss camps.  I believe the cane toad population may have been reduced too.

Katherine 2-09-11

 

 

Not a great deal to write about today, went to Pine Creek (Mayse’s) for breakfast.  Greg had the most humungous breakfast I think I have ever seen.  Arrived Katherine and after having booked into our motel, (decadence) we did our shopping.  We have to have supplies for the next 7 days.

Went to dinner at the Club next door. 

Big SIGH.  Jill and Norbert have told us that they are leaving us at Katherine and have decided to make their way to Brisbane where they have friends and family with whom they will visit . 

Cooinda (Gagudju Lodge) 31-08-11

The day stated off with a little excitement, Greg has been having trouble with his Fridge and the second battery which doesn’t appear to be charging properly.  He rigged up a wire to connect the 2 and the load suddenly (don’t quite remember why) became too high and the wiring melted – smoke poured out of the engine.  The men all rushed over to consult and assist.  Peter D (christened McGyver for those old enough to remember who that was) was probably the most useful.  It all seemed to settle down anyway.
Today we all went on the Yellow River Cruise.  We caught the courtesy bus from the camping ground and had a great driver called Simone.  She took to us and decided that she would also drive the boat that we sat on (there were 2 due to go out – 11:30 for 1 1/2 hours).  It was fantastic – there are pictures in the photo album. 
The water ways are teeming with birdlife, fish and …..crocodiles.  Simone is great and puts the boat as close as possible so  that we can see the above up close.
The water lilies and lotuses are in flower, so pretty.  Unfortunately the feral animals are here too, Simone show us the damage being done by the wild pigs, the horses (which we can see in the distance) will not be culled due to their relationship with humans.  Salvia ( a water plant from peoples fish tanks) is spreading badly too they have introduced a weevil to it to help keep it under control.  Let’s hope it isn’t another cane toad.
We returned to the lodge, had our lunch and then headed out to Twin Falls.  Jill M and Norbert decided to stay at the lodge and spend some time in the pool which is really nice.  Jabiru pool was COLD.
The 14 kms of the road to the falls is a 4wd road (complete with 60 cm deep river crossing) and I really want to do it to test the car.  It would be better if it breaks down again here (closeish to help) than out somewhere on the gulf.  The road is challenging enough to test the vehicle and Michael relaxes, I think he had lost confidence in the car.  At the end of the track it is necessary to catch a boat to take us closer, then walk  for about 15-20 mins depending upon fitness, the path is quite rocky.  The last boat leaves at 4 and the road has taken us longer than expected, Tony is urging us on over the CB radio (he is of course there in plenty of time).  We do make it and take another glorious trip up  a river.  This is a gorge with steep and very high cliffs.  Lovely in the late afternoon.  Our guide (Dallas) drops us of and says he will be back to pick us up at 5.
Greg, Wanda, Dean and Karen take the trip to Jim Jim Falls, it is getting later and this is a difficult walk, so only the fit bush walkers go.  The rest of us head back to the lodge and Peter D needs some ‘Tony power’ to push him out of some deep sand.  Hehe we are all learning heaps on this trip.
Most of us had lovely tea at the lodge restaurant (who wants to camp cook after such a long day?)  TONY!!!
Michael has not been sleeping well and is miserable (although I think it’s over the car rather than lack of sleep).  However, a plan has been made to ply him with alcohol to assist him.  IT WORKS!

Cooinda (Gagudju Lodge) 30-08-11

 

Today Tony, Jen, Peter C, Craig, Jill P, Karen, Dean Greg and Wanda went to the Injalinka Art Gallery (Michael and I were supposed to go).  The Art Gallery is a showcase of aboriginal art in the area and the artists work on their paintings and/or basketry/weaponry while you are there.  It is possible to talk to them about their work.

To go to Injalinka a permit is required to travel on the 8 km road.  When we purchased same on the way up, the woman selling them to us warned us that we could not cross the East Alligator River between 10:30Am and 3:00 PM due to dangerous tides.  Tony, Jen, Peter C, Craig and Jill P have stayed at Merl (not far from the crossing).  Karen, Dean, Greg, Michael and me are in Jabiru.  Karen, Dean, Greg and Wanda decide to leave early so as to cross the river, see the gallery and be back across before 10:30, the supposed deadline.

Michael and I decide that we can’t make it – our belongings are all out of the car and it will take some time to repack. 

All those who go have a great time and I believe quite a bit of money changed hands.  SIGH, in hindsight we could have gone, the river warning proved to be FALSE and the crossing was low ALL day.

John, Lanlan, Jill M, Norbert, Peter D, Susan, Michael and I go to the bakery for breakfast and then head off to Cooinda,(Gagudju Lodge) our next stop.  On the way we stop  at Bowali visitor's centre to get some information  for the next stop after Cooinda.  We will all be together again at Cooinda and plan on taking the Yellow River Cruise.   We take a side trip to a private invitation only camp.  The manager comes out and has a chat apparently during the wet season, the water is over the roof of the toilet block so they can  only operate 6 months of the year.  Imagine what it must be like cleaning up after these waters.

Booked into Cooinda and had a lazy afternoon in the pool.

The others arrived late afternoon and it is great to be together again

Michael and I discover that our cryovaced meat is ‘off’ and will have to be thrown away.

The birds and animals are creating a ruckus at night  Sounds like death and mayhem all around us.

JABIRU – MONDAY 29/08/2011

Up early this morning, with relief for Peter D’s return last night and apprehension re state of Michael & Dot’s Prado.  Worst case scenario planning saw a need for a lengthy wait for a part and possible end to the trip.  We unpacked everything from the car that we thought we might need for the worst case scenario of a long stay in Jabiru.

John & Michael visit BP service station at 7.30am for discussion.and telephone call to Toyota – Healesville.  Toyota Service Manager initially recommending the vehicle be taken to nearest Toyota outlet – Darwin!!!!! 250+km

A visit to the bakery was essential to acquire fresh takeaway breakfast for ourselves and our wives, plus coffee and scrolls for Peter D & Sue, who were put into an air conditioned cabin or the evening on return from the medical centre.

Peter & Sue on return to their tent were greeted with much emotion by all.

Following a coaching session on options negotiating from John, and a further telephone call to Healesville Toyota [Glen] arrangements were made with BP service station to send a tow truck for picking up the Prado.  At 10.30 the Prado was collected [by a registered RANT /RACV contractor- advised service station that previous days contact with RANT indicated the service had been closed down at Jabiru and it then began a waiting game at the Kakadu Bakery for John, Lanlan, Peter, Sue Norbert & Jill M.  Finally after an hour and a half, Michael went over to get the “bad” news.

Much to Michael’s surprise the Prado’s fuel pump was primed, the vehicle started and ran without any discernible problems.  Explanation of air in fuel line, causing no fuel to motor. The BP service Manager had contacted RANT over previous day’s debacle and arranged for the tow from caravan park to garage to be covered by RANT. Spoke to RANT Mgr who had listened to the recorded conversation of yesterday and was very apologetic and going to put in a formal report on the matter.  A subsequent phone call to advise him of the flow on impact of incompetence contributing to extra hours in extreme heat causing Peter Ds medical situation.

Michael returned to the Bakery with the vehicle and provided everyone with the details.  Everyone was amazed and discussed how close to starting we possibly were.  Theories were put forward as to the tilt tray truck assisting removing the air blockage.

The swimming pool that afternoon provide relief to the high 30degrees, however Greg, Wanda, Dean & Karen went walking to Noulangi Rock.  The mosquitos and midges are loving Karen’s ankle & legs.

That evening we caught up with Colin & Denise [fellow travellers met at Cobourg peninsula].  They advised they had passed our other 2 vehicles [Tony & Peter C] leaving Cobourg.   We were told that Craig had broken his duck at the Cooper Creek stream they stopped at -  he picked up 9 barramundi – kept 2. Yesterday’s Prado problem was recanted with mechanic Colin and all methods of dealing with the problem re-explored.

Evening meals around the pool, with the wine from the previous evening consumed.  the beer battered chips and aioli sauce was very popular with all.

MJG.

Peter C Jill P, Craig, Tony and Jen left Cobourg today to meet, they stopped at Coopers creek on the way, a really lovely little spot that teemed with birdlife…..and Barramundi.  They had some time up their sleeves so they decided to throw a line in.  WOW.  Craig caught 9, Tony caught 4, all bar 3 went back into the river.  Tony informs me that he caught the biggest.   This is great for Craig who has had little luck fishing in Cobourg, broke his ‘unbreakable’ rod on the first day.

They camped at Merle tonight.  Merle is the campsite close to the East Alligator River where we stopped on the way up.